Lamai is Koh Samui's second-biggest beach, a long sweep of golden sand on the east coast, about 15 to 20 minutes south of Chaweng. It has plenty of restaurants, bars and places to stay, but a noticeably more relaxed, village feel than Chaweng, and it is a popular choice with families, couples and long-stay visitors who want a lively base without the crowds.
Lamai at a glance
- Where: East coast of Koh Samui, south of Chaweng
- Best for: A relaxed but lively base, good value, local food, families and couples
- The beach: Around 4 km of golden sand, deeper water and some waves
- Nearby: Hin Ta and Hin Yai, Coral Cove, Silver Beach, Na Muang Waterfall
What Lamai is like
Lamai has two sides. Behind the middle of the beach is a compact town of restaurants, bars, massage shops and markets, busy in the evenings but small enough to walk around. Away from the centre, the north and south ends of the beach are quieter, with resorts and beach restaurants set back among the palms.
Many visitors find it strikes a good balance: enough going on in the evenings, some of the best local food on the island, and prices that are often lower than in Chaweng.
The beach: swimming and seasons
Lamai's beach is around 4 km long, with coarser golden sand and water that gets deeper more quickly than on the north coast. From January to September the sea is usually calm and great for swimming. During the rainy season, from October to December, the east coast can get bigger waves and stronger currents, so swim where you can see others and always respect the red flags.
The southern end of the beach, near the rocks, tends to be the most sheltered and is a good spot for families.
Hin Ta and Hin Yai
At the southern end of Lamai are Hin Ta and Hin Yai, the "Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks", two rock formations that local legend links to an elderly couple lost at sea. They are one of Koh Samui's best-known sights, free to visit, and lined with stalls selling snacks and souvenirs, including kalamae, a sticky coconut sweet that is a local speciality. Go early or late in the day to avoid the coach groups.
Lamai Sunday Walking Street
Every Sunday evening, the streets in the centre of Lamai fill with stalls for the Lamai Walking Street market, with street food, clothes, crafts and live music. It is one of the best night markets on the island and a good, inexpensive way to try lots of Thai dishes in one go. Bring cash.
Nearby: coves, waterfalls and temples
- Coral Cove and Silver Beach (Crystal Bay): two small, pretty bays on the coast road between Chaweng and Lamai, good for snorkelling when the sea is calm. See our guide to the best snorkelling around Koh Samui.
- Na Muang Waterfall: one of the island's best-known waterfalls, around 15 minutes' drive inland. See our guide to hiking in Koh Samui.
- Wat Khunaram: a temple on the road south-west of Lamai, home to the mummified body of a revered monk, still seated in meditation.
Where to eat and drink
Lamai has one of the best local food scenes on Koh Samui, and some of the island's favourite Thai spots are here. A few to try:
- Horm Lamai: a popular place for a traditional Thai breakfast, with dim sum, steamed buns, shrimp paste rice and Thai-style coffee and tea. Open from early morning to early afternoon, closed on Wednesdays.
- Ran Nam Cha: a simple early-morning shop near Wat Lamai, serving comforting pork congee with egg and freshly fried dough sticks. Go before 10:30am.
- Chai Si Lamai: a great evening noodle shop, known for its red pork and a choice of clear, dark, tom yum or yentafo broths.
- Kanom Jene Lamai: an evening pop-up serving rice noodles topped with your choice of curry, with a self-serve spread of fresh vegetables and herbs.
- Lamai Fresh Food Market: the local fresh market, for tropical fruit, Thai snacks and a glimpse of everyday island life.
Add the Sunday Walking Street and the restaurants that set tables on the sand at sunset, and you could eat well in Lamai for a week without repeating yourself. Smaller local places are often cash only, and opening hours on the island can change, so it is worth checking before you go.
Where to stay in Lamai
Lamai has a wide range of accommodation, from budget guesthouses and bungalows to boutique hotels and beachfront resorts, along with wellness retreats on the headlands to the south. Stay near the centre to be close to restaurants and the night market, or at either end of the beach for more peace and quiet.
How to get to Lamai
Lamai is around 25 to 30 minutes by car from Samui International Airport and around 15 to 20 minutes from Chaweng, along the main ring road. Songthaews (shared pick-up trucks) run along the ring road between Lamai and Chaweng during the day. If you book a tour with us, return transfers from your accommodation are included on most trips.
Things to do from Lamai
- Luxury longtail tours: Pig Island and Koh Taen, a short drive south of Lamai
- Quad bike and waterfall tours: into the jungle in the hills behind the coast
- Jungle zip line: the Tree Bridge canopy course and Tan Rua Waterfall
- Ang Thong National Marine Park tours: 42 islands, the Emerald Lake and kayaking
Frequently asked questions
Where is Lamai in Koh Samui?
Lamai is on Koh Samui's east coast, around 15 to 20 minutes' drive south of Chaweng and 25 to 30 minutes from the airport.
Is Lamai or Chaweng better?
Chaweng is busier, with more nightlife, shopping and the island's longest beach. Lamai is more relaxed and often better value, while still having plenty of restaurants and bars. Many visitors prefer Lamai for a calmer stay.
Is Lamai good for swimming?
Yes, from January to September the sea is usually calm. From October to December the east coast can have bigger waves and stronger currents, so check the flags and swim where others are swimming.
When is the Lamai night market?
The Lamai Walking Street market is held every Sunday evening in the centre of Lamai, with street food, crafts and live music.
What are Hin Ta and Hin Yai?
Hin Ta and Hin Yai, the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, are two natural rock formations at the southern end of Lamai Beach, and one of Koh Samui's best-known free sights.
Is Lamai good for families?
Yes. Lamai has a good range of family-friendly hotels, plenty of food options and a more relaxed atmosphere than Chaweng. The southern end of the beach is usually the most sheltered for children.
